A Sit Down With Josephine Guldhammer Hjelmbjerg of Esso
We chat with Josephine Guldhammer Hjelmbjerg of Esso about neighbourhood rhythms, familiar faces, and keeping life simple with her dog Cilla.
Just a seven-minute walk from Valby Station, Esso Café sits on a busy corner of Vigerslev Allé, with a steady flow of bikes, buses and delivery vans outside. Inside, though, it's calm: soft music, good bread, and regulars who settle in.
Josephine Guldhammer Hjelmbjerg, the owner, has lived in Valby for over ten years and opened Esso because she couldn't find the kind of café she wanted in the area, so she made one. Details matter to her — she found the counter, a 100-year-old piece and an important centrepiece to build the café around, online and drove across the country to collect it. Two months in, she already knows most customers by name. Some dogs, too.
How do you start your day?
I get up around six, throw on some music and take a quick walk to the café. I live just five minutes away, which helps. Then it's straight into baking doughs and pastries, setting up the space, and putting the chairs outside. I always make a coffee that ends up going cold because mornings are full on. I still enjoy it though.
How would you describe the vibe here, and what can someone (and their dog) expect when they visit?
It's relaxed and local. I like things to look good, but not in a way that feels too serious. It's not about being trendy or exclusive. It's about being comfortable and somewhere you want to stay a while. When the sun's out, people gather outside on both sides of the café to get the best seats.
We're in a bit of an unexpected spot, so there aren't many other cafés like this around, and I think that makes it feel more personal. I chose the espresso machine myself. It's a Big Dream T, and honestly, it's lived up to the name. It's also quietly become a bit of a favourite with people who love a good coffee-and-countertop photo.
I know most of the regulars and a lot of their dogs by name. I love dogs, so I'm always happy to see them come in — it's how I get my dog fix. I did consider getting a café dog, but I've definitely got my hands full already. My sisters work here with me too, so in a way it's also a bit of a family business.
What keeps people — and their dogs — coming back?
I think people like the consistency. They know what to expect when they walk in, and that feels reassuring in a city that's always changing. We try to be kind and attentive without being overbearing. Dogs and their owners both seem to appreciate that.
The neighbourhood is also changing a lot, with new buildings and more people moving in. But we've stayed the same, and I think that's something people value. It's a familiar face, literally and figuratively.
Who keeps the place ticking? Any familiar faces?
Mostly locals — people who live within a few streets, families with young kids, and dog walkers passing through on their morning routes. There's a regular Labrador called Otto who comes in most days and lies by the window. His owner always orders the same thing: filter coffee and a cinnamon bun. Otto gets a pat and some water.
Behind the counter, it's me and my sisters. We all live nearby, which helps with the early starts. It's nice working with family. We know each other's rhythms, and we don't need to overthink things.
What's on the menu?
Coffee from April Coffee Roasters, fresh pastries baked each morning, and a simple lunch menu that changes daily. Right now we're doing open sandwiches, soups, and a rotating salad. Weekends bring brunch — eggs, sourdough, the works. Everything is made here or sourced locally.
I try to keep the menu simple and seasonal. I'm not interested in doing too much or following trends. Just good food, made well, with ingredients that speak for themselves.
What do you wish more people understood about running a dog-friendly café?
That it works when everyone's respectful. Dogs that are calm and well-behaved make it easy. Owners who clean up, keep leads short, and know when to leave make it sustainable. It's a two-way thing, and most people get that.
I also think it's important to say that welcoming dogs doesn't mean compromising on hygiene or quality. You can have both. It just takes a bit of thought and some clear boundaries.
What's nearby that you love?
Valby Park is a short walk away — big, green, and great for dogs. Vigerslev Allé itself is lively but manageable, with good bike lanes and a few other spots worth stopping at. It's not flashy, but it's solid. That's Valby.
When you're not at the café, how do you unwind?
I cook. Slow things, usually — bread, stews, things that take time. It's the opposite of café mornings, and I need that. I also walk a lot, sometimes with no particular destination. Just out and back.
Favourite dog moment recently?
A couple brought their new rescue dog in last week, still a bit nervous. They sat outside, and the dog gradually settled — first under the table, then beside them, then eventually resting its head on the owner's foot. By the end, it looked like it had been coming here for years. Those moments stay with you.
If you were a dog, what breed would you be?
Maybe a greyhound. Calm most of the time, quick when needed, and happiest with a soft place to rest.
Instagram: @essovalby